June 12-13, Lumpy Ridge

“Oh crap, not again.” That thought ran through my mind as the sleet started pummeling us while on the 2nd pitch of Batman and Robin (5.6). All I could think about was yet another epic in RMNP and kicked myself for not respecting how fast the clouds were moving in.

Luckily, after about 10 minutes of suckage, the sleet went away and the sun was back out. We didn’t summit Batman Pinnacle though, because we had already started our escape off the back side of the tower via a traverse and downclimb into the descent gully. Maybe next time.

It was Whitney’s first trad lead and she climbed in fine style.

Sunday saw us back at the Pear again with a few newbies. We warmed up on La Chaim (5.7). It turned out to be a nice route, although a bit run out on the first pitch. The next (and final) route of the day was Platinum Stethoscope (5.7) which I didn’t particularly care for. It wasn’t awful but it wasn’t great either.

The goal for next weekend is Kor’s Flake. The route description mentions “squeeze” which scares me. A lot. We’ll see how it goes.

June 5-6, Lumpy Ridge

Apologies for the most likely dull entry here, but I decided that I should utilize the category feature of this blogging software, along with the fact that this is a journal of sorts. In other words, I’m going to write some short entries after climbing weekends just noting what we did and whatnot. These are going to be weekends which are not worthy of trip report status, and by definition, boring. But my anal-retentive personality dictates that I record my activities for posterity, and this is my blog, so I get to do whatever I want. In any case, just skip reading future entries in the “climbing” category if you want.

So anyhow, spent the weekend at Lumpy. I stayed at Whit’s house, which made things so much nicer, as she lives in Estes and thus the crag was only 5 minutes away. Saturday, we warmed up on Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe (5.7) on The Pear, which is the first rock west of the Book group, and it was a really enjoyable 2 pitches of climbing. Next up was Good Timing (5.9) and I thought it was pretty difficult. The first pitch has a runout slab to a 5.8+ roof section that I almost popped off of, and the second pitch involves 5.9 slab climbing past three bolts before escaping into an easy crack. That route just worked us over, and we called it quits after that.

Sunday, still feeling a bit fatigued, we just took it easy and climbed over on the Left Book. We only did one route — Hiatus (5.7+) — and it was mostly mellow with a few tricky spots on the first pitch. The beauty of living in Colorado is that you can just climb one route and then leave without feeling guilty that you’re leaving so much unclimbed rock behind.

Other notes — the approach to the Pear is much more mellow than the Book. Not saying that the Book approach is deathly brutal or anything, because it’s not, but the Pear approach is just that much easier. It’s also less crowded for sure, so I’m thinking we’re going to be climbing a bunch there in the next few weeks or so.