I received email from a Peruvian climber named Mela Tubino
(mtubino@ec-red.com) Here is her beta, mostly in her own words. I
have tried to clarify where I could and fixed grammatical and
spelling errors.
The following places are near Huaraz
- Huanchac and Hannanhirca (Hananjirca?) bouldering locations that
are 5 minutes away by taxi.
- Mashuan has some one pitch sport routes
- Recuay has hard climbing. It's not tall, but the climbing is good.
- Other locations are Monterrey and Chancos (sport)
Other locations
- There is a stone "forest" in Huyllay (about 6 hours from
Lima). Contact Renzo for more information.
- There are big walls in La Esfinge. La Esfinge is in quebrada Par.
quebrada Rurec and quebrada Llaca are near Huaraz and also have
climbing. You'll have to ask around or look at a map to find them.
A "quebrada" is a deep valley.
Local Beta:
Ask in Mountclimb (Alfredo's store) for Albergue Huantzan Inn.
The family of Yuri Ramierz [who passed away in 2002] receives
tourists. The address is:
Leoniza y Lescano 600, Huarupampa, Huarez
huantzan_inn@yahoo.com.pe or huantzan_inn@yahoo.com
(044) 723158 (phone)
Yuri's brother Edson is Mela's friend, and he can help you find
places to climb.
The best mountains guides that I know are Richard Hidalgo, Coqui
Castaneda and "nene". Ask for them at the guides house (Parque
Ginebra). For alpine there are lots of incredible mountains, but
it's better if you ask Zarela or Edson, because I don't know how
are the conditions for each one this year.
Zarela: zarelaz@hotmail.com phone 721694 (Huaraz local)
Renzo : anguesrenzo@hotmail.com (almost never use it)
work 4484099 home 3443453 (Huaraz local)
Gear:
Alfredo has the best one in huaraz, but there's another that is
good too, is the one of Selio Villon, in "Plaza Ginebra" near
the main square.
Accommodations:
When I go there I prefer to go (to sleep) to Zarela's or Edson's
houses, the both have hot water and they know how to organize
climbing expeditions, where to go, and all that you need there.
If he need information or something, ask Zarela or Edson, they
are very close friends of mine.
Food:
To eat, i like:
- "Campo Base" (Raimondi and Luzuriaga Av. 2nd floor)
- "La brasa roja" at Av Luzuriaga
- There's a Thai restaurant that's good but expensive (ask zarela)
- 2 blocks from the main square, in the street of the fire
station, there's a new Italian restaurant (Edson's
restaurant). They make an excellent pizza and fetucchini
alfredo.