From: Russ Walling Subject: Re: Yosemite Hardman Offwidth Circuit Newsgroups: rec.climbing Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 18:38:20 -0700 in article a94tmr$jmc$1@usenet.Stanford.EDU, Clint Cummins at clint@Stanford.EDU wrote on 4/11/02 2:03 PM: > Alexander George Cooper wrote: >> I keep hearing about the Hardman Offwidth Circuit in Yosemite >> but I can't find any references to it other than that >> Chingando is part of the circuit. Is there an official list >> and/or sequence of climbs to do? > It's an informal concept. The standard ows that people try > are: > - Chingando > - Generator Crack (on toprope) > - last 10' of Sacherer Cracker (can be avoided by going left) > > If you want to get serious, check out the list below, posted to > this newsgroup a mere 10 years ago. Note: I don't "do" ow, so > I can't provide any ow beta from personal experience. > From: (Bruce Bailey) > Newsgroups: rec.climbing > Subject: Re: Calling Dr. OW... > Date: 29 Jan 92 17:37:43 GMT > Here's a list of the Yosemite offwidths that I'm "familiar" > with. They're ranked in descending order of difficulty > according to the guidebook's rating of the actual offwidth > section. Some of these routes may have overall ratings which > are harder than the one I give, due to non-offwidth climbing > which is technically more difficult. I'll try to list person > responsible for the first ascent if I can remember who it is, > as well as include some personal observations. > > 5.11d Death Crack Vern Clevinger. Tuolome Meadows classic. > Not much offwidth necessary. A couple of #4 Camalots and a #6 > friend (Yates) ought to cover the widest parts. > > 5.11c Easy Wind ? Tuolome Meadows. Impressive and > beautiful, overhanging fist crack. The widest part doesn't > have to be offwidthed. Carry 4 pieces in the 5 to 6 inch > range. > > 5.11a Cream Mark Klemens classic. Carry many 5 and 6 > inch pieces, as well as stuff up to 7 or 8 inches. > > 5.11a Blind Faith Kauk (and I think Bard). There are > actually 4 pitches of offwidth on this route, 5.11a, 5.10c, > 5.10b, 5.9 (the last pitch of the regular route, which the > guidebook mis-rates). > > 5.11a Power Point Braun and Cosgrove. This pitch is > mostly wide-fists. The offwidth section is short and is > protected by a bolt, but having a #3 Bigbro would surely help > alot too. Bring as many #4 Camalots and #4 Friends as you can > get your hands on. > > 5.10d Twilight Zone Chuck Pratt. Number 3 Bigbros are the > ticket here. About 4 of these will make this route quite save. > Bring a #4 Camalot too, and some smaller (hand sized) stuff for > near the top. Barry Bates told me that when Pratt lead this, > he went all the way past the widest stuff without protection > (about 40 feet up?). He then yelled down to someone on the > ground to run to his car and get a big piton. So Pratt hung on > while they fetched the piton (bong I suppose), and then he > pulled it up with the rope and wanked it in! > > 5.10d Steppin Out Mark Klemens. Off on the right side of > Reed's. Bring as many 6 inch pieces as you can get your hands > on. It is possible to push a 6 inch Friend (Yates) practically > up the entire pitch. The crux is at the very top, and can be > protected by a #4 Camalot. I heard a story that Earl Wiggens > lead this without any big gear! I guess all he got in was > something at the chockstone (half way), and the quarter-inch > bolt 20 feet below the top! > > 5.10c Edge of Night Bridwell, et. al. Hideous, flared, > greasy, overhanging 5 inch (my worst size) section. This > entire pitch could probably be lead with just #4 Camalots > (about 5 of them)! > > 5.10c Wild Turkey Dale Bard. Way out on Autobahn > Buttress. Bring as many 5 and 6 inch pieces as you can get > your hands on. I think I had about 8 - 10 pieces in this size > range. > > 5.10c Mental Block Bard, Bridwell. Two offwidth pitches. > Impressive line, but old, death rappel anchors (the bolt > hangers are home-made; single strips of metal bent at a slight > angle such that a downward load caused a force DIRECTLY OUT on > the bolt!). > > 5.10c The Wedge Jardine. I think this should be called > "The Wedgie". The 5.11 face climbing at the bottom of this is > NOT well protected. The wide part starts at hand size, and > gradually gets wider up to 9 inches, so bring an assortment. > > 5.10b Slack, Left Side Bridwell (?). Bring stuff to 7 or 8 > inches, and be sure to save some big stuff for near the top of > the pitch. My friend lead this and thought he was through the > worst of it, after climbing a squeeze chimney. He left most of > his big stuff in the middle of the lead, thinking he wouldn't > need it. He was rudely surprised at the top, where he had to > do a scarey runout on a slightly overhung, 7 inch section. > > 5.10b Ahab. Bridwell & Sacherer (spelling?). Everyone has > seen this route just to the right of Moby Dick. No mysteries > here. > > 5.10b Vendetta Robbins. Flared, 5-5 1/2 inches. Bring a > couple of pieces to 6 inches for the bottom, and save about 4 > #4 Camalots for the flared crux. > > 5.10a Chingando Pratt. Lots of stuff in the 5-6inch range, > then maybe some stuff to 8 inches for the squeeze at the top. > > 5.10a Crack of Despair Sacherer. A barrel of laughs. > Include some gear up to 7 or 8 inches. > > 5.10a Right Side of Absolutely Free. Klemens. Another > barrel of laughs. This felt like one of the hardest offwidths > I had ever done. Bring as much big stuff as you can get your > hands on (all sizes). A real puker. > > 5.10a Reed's Direct (Robbins?). One 6 inch piece will > probably protect the crux flare at the top of the last pitch. > > 5.10a Reed's Left (Sacherer?). Beautiful, classic, direct > line. Bring lots of stuff in the 6 inch range. > > 5.10a Doggie Do (?). Good beginner's offwidth.5.10a > > 5.9 Moby Dick Left (Sacherer ?). A friend and I climbed > Ahab, Moby Center, and then this all in the same day. By the > time we got to this we were laughing hysterically - "only a > 5.9!!!!" I'll add: Left side of Gollum (roofy and dry in the rain) Left side of the Hourglass (too far to hike) 10.96 (all time fave) Orange Juice Ave (crappy leaning mess) Secret Storm (camp 4 choss) Bad Ass Momma (super TR or solo) River Boulder (slick wide hand/fist to flare) Cool Wheel (roofy wide hands?) Rt. Side of the Pharoahs Beard? (forgot) Owl Roof (famous butt shot) Excalibur (kind of a wall route) Space Invaders (hideous lieback?) Crucifix (mostly fist) Kaukulator (short OW, dry when wet) Get Right with Galens Crack (short top rope) Wild Thing (rock fall death now?) Jaws (roof, hard, and then harder. TR w/ backrope & lead) And the next day I did...... adios, Russ -- "...what are you? Attached to this world?" Walt Shipley -- *** ***