From: Brutus of Wyde
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Technique question: How to overcome lack of reach?
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 15:27:40 GMT
Meeowser:
Although I have a positive ape index, and am
considerably taller than some, I am also shorter
than many taller folks.
Here's a few short-person techniques I have compiled
over the years:
Toe on point like a ballet dancer.
Stand on one foot with the other foot.
Stand on partner's hand
For sideways reaches, heel orientation and
location of the foot on the furthest
edge of the hold can gain a few inches
Mantle!
Push that mantle down until you can stand
on that hold!
Stem things that others just reach past.
look for ways you can use blank walls
(like stemming)
stand in a sling
yard on gear
stick-clip
shoulder-stand
tension
lasso a feature then batman
chimney the adjacent crack
high-step, flag, smear, scum
dyno
(in the gym) use off-route holds or draws
undercling
Offwidths!
flexibility
abs
full-body bridges
pay no attention to ratings
leave ego at the bottom of the climb
and, as a last resort,
fall off
Hope this helps!
Brutus